Redwood National and State Parks are home to the world’s tallest trees, which is why it was at the top of our Bucket List! However, upon arrival, we were shocked by how much more there was to do and see. The wildlife opportunities at this park are seriously amazing with everything from elk to seals to sea stars. We also didn’t realize that it’s pieced together with 3 other state parks and you’ll find yourself moving between them as you explore. Due to the unique set up of these parks only certain areas require park passes. Redwood National Park doesn’t have a designated entrance, so it’s free for day use. Only one hike we did (Fern Canyon Loop Trail) requires an entrance fee and if you have an America the Beautiful pass it gets you in.

We visited in early July and were shocked by the chilly temperatures we encountered. Most days didn’t get above 60 degrees and the mornings were extra chilly. Something to keep in mind when visiting this park is how under-developed it is. You won’t find snack spots or restaurants easily when spending the day in the park so be sure to pack plenty of food and water for each day.

This itinerary focuses solely on the southern half of the park as the road to the northern section was closed while we were there due to a landslide that had occurred on the Redwoods Highway in February, 2021, but has since been cleared.

Day 1

Hike the Tall Tree Grove

The Tall Tree Grove is one of the most notable hikes in the park, as such, this is a permitted hike. Only 50 parties are allowed per day so, be sure to get your permit ahead of time. Plan on dedicating a full day for this hike as it’s a long one for little legs at 4 miles and 1600 feet of elevation gain. Our kids (4 and 6 at the time) were easily able to do this hike on their own but it does get long, so bring plenty of snacks and water. Allowing a full day allows you to ample time to spend at Redwood Creek and exploring the tall tree grove.

The long and intense drive to the trailhead is worth mentioning as visitors should plan for more than an hour of driving each way along a very windy, narrow road with redwoods hugging closely to the side; which doesn’t leave much room for two-way traffic. Be patient and kind to fellow drivers. We had to reverse a couple of times to maneuver into pull- offs as anxious drivers didn’t want to pass without lots of extra space. Don’t stress it and just go slow and be prepared for a lot of dust!

The hike itself is absolutely incredible! After we reached Redwood Creek we took a lunch break and enjoyed throwing rocks in the water before doing the Tall Trees Loop which was definitely worth the drive and the hike. The trees were dripping with moss and the light was working so hard to filter down to us amongst the canopies of these incredible, thousand year old giants. The kids had a blast climbing the fallen behemoths and looking at the fire scars (sometimes by climbing right into them). It was an experience I won’t soon forget.

Day 2

Early Morning – Visit the Tidal Pools

When traveling with young children, we always participate in the Junior Ranger program at each National Park site we visit. This is fun and interesting for the whole family and helps us all learn more about the ecosystems we are visiting. Our first stop is the Ranger Station so we can pick up our Junior Ranger booklets allowing the kids to work on them throughout our visit. Upon arriving at the visitor center we received our booklets from an awesome Minnesota-born ranger who hooked us up with all of the inside info, including when the tidal pools are revealed at low tide (one of the activities in the Junior Ranger booklet).

I had never seen a tidal pool out in the wild before and I was absolutely amazed by all the sea life we saw including; barnacles, mussels, anemones, sea stars, and even some tiny crabs!

Trinidad State Beach is a great spot for viewing these incredible pools and, because it was so early in the morning, we had the place to ourselves aside from a few locals out for a chilly morning stroll.

Be careful of how far you stray along the beach as the tide comes in quickly yet, oddly, you don’t really realize it making it easy to get cutoff from your car if you stray too far.

Pro-Tip: If you are only visiting a park for a single day some Rangers will entrust parents with the Junior Ranger badges to be handed out after completion of the booklet. OR you can mail your completed booklet back to the park to receive the badge.

Mid-Morning – Hike the Fern Canyon Loop Trail

First off, I would recommend a high clearance vehicle as the road to the trailhead has several stream crossings and my sister’s minivan did bottom out at one point which was super stressful and scary for her family. While they were able to make it through, I would encourage you to be cautious at the stream crossings. It is also a very popular hike and it wasn’t easy to find parking, so the earlier you get there the better! This hike does require a park entrance fee, our America the Beautiful pass got us in.

The hike itself is short and sweet at only a mile long with minimal elevation gain, but wet! There are planks and boards for crossing the continuous stream you are hiking through down in the canyon. But, kids will fall in and feet will get wet so either a good, close-toed sandal or extra socks are definitely recommended for this one. This is a loop trail and we opted to do the canyon section first before heading up and out, thereby ending on dry land, allowing our feet time to dry out a bit!

When you’re done with hike it will be a perfect time for lunch so leave the forest behind and walk to the beach for a windy lunch on the shore and keep a close eye out for seals while playing in the sand!

Afternoon – Hike to Trillium Falls

Because Fern Canyon is such a short hike, there’s definitely time and energy left for another quick hike at Trillium Falls. This is a great one to do with kids, especially if you get the scavenger hunt brochure from the visitor center. Our kids were so excited to follow the clues and answer the hidden question to earn a special patch from the rangers!

This is a great hike if you weren’t able to secure permits to the Tall Tree Grove or if 4 miles of hiking is outside of your comfort zone. At a little over a mile, this out and back trail is easy to do and very scenic with plenty of astonishing giant redwoods along the way to admire. If you’re up for more of a challenge this hike can be made longer by doing a full, larger 3 mile loop. As we had already had a full day and had 6 kids along, we opted for the shorter version!

Trillium Falls is small but beautiful and the kids had a blast hopping on the rocks around it’s base. This hike didn’t seem to be as popular as the other ones we visited. It was nice to have no problem accessing parking for a change!

Day 3

 Early Morning – Elk Viewing

Home to 7 different Elk herds, Redwoods is a great spot to pretty much be guaranteed an Elk sighting or two. There are several pull-offs in both State and National Parks to see the Elk grazing. According to the NPS website, “General herd locations are the Crescent Beach area, Gold Bluffs Beach and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, Elk Meadow, Lower Redwood Creek, park lands in the Orick Valley, and the Bald Hills.” We stayed at Elk Country RV Resort and a herd visits their meadow almost daily! Oddly enough, though we saw the elk regularly we never managed to get a picture!

 Mid-Morning – Hike the Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail

This is a very popular hike with limited parking so be sure to get there early or late, or be like us and happen to get parking with excellent timing! This 1.5 mile loop trail is perfect for children! So many beautiful trees to explore, giant fire scars to marvel at, and a safe, manicured trail makes this a parents dream.

 Afternoon – Beach Time

When you’re traveling with kids it’s always important to stop and take a breath. The beach is one of the best ways to do this, as there’s water AND sand all at the same time! My sister was along for this trip and her AirBnB rental had kayaks and SUPs for guests to use. We had a blast on the water, letting the kids take turns paddling.

There are lots of options for beaches around Trinidad, we opted for Big Lagoon County Park as the water was calm, warm, and shallow compared to the ocean just on the other side of the sand! There was a small fee for parking, $5 per vehicle. Of course we followed our beach day up with some most excellent ice cream and french fries at the Lighthouse Grill which I highly recommend!

Where to Stay

You won’t find a lot of hotels near the park as the closest, larger town is about 35 miles away in Eureka, CA. And, unlike some other National Parks there are no lodges located within the park itself. Your best bet when heading to the Redwoods will be camping or Airbnb rentals.

Camping

There are plenty of camping options in the National Park with 4 developed campgrounds and numerous backcountry camping options. The campgrounds fill up quickly so be sure to secure your reservation for the summer ASAP! The campgrounds were all developed in the 1940s, as such, they are not big-rig friendly and have no hook-ups for RVs. Trailer length limitations are strictly enforced and most of the campgrounds have a limit just over 25 feet for rigs.

RV Park

We ended up staying at Elk Country RV Resort located just north of the town of Trinidad, CA. We tow a 36 foot Grand Design 5th wheel and were nestled into a back-in site in a wooded area amongst beautiful trees. There is an open, larger area for big-rigs if you require a pull-thru and would rather avoid the trees.

Airbnb

There are numerous, family-friendly Airbnb options in the town of Trinidad, CA located just south of the park. My sister and her family rented a beautiful home in the hills just outside of town with a hot tub, fire pit, and woods all around. There are so many options near this charming ocean town that will make your stay truly excellent!

Guidebook Pick

We love finding local guidebooks at visitor centers and the Redwoods was no exception. We picked up, Big Tree Hikes of the Redwood Coast – A Guide to the Giants by Tyler Williams and it was perfect for finding the best hikes for our family while visiting the area.

Our trip to see the Redwoods was one of the most powerful of my life. I wish we had had more time to visit and explore and I can’t wait to go back and see and do more, especially in the northern half of the park! One of the things I loved most about this park was how undeveloped it was. It feels untouched and unspoiled unlike so many of the other, more visited parks. We had just come from Sequoia National Park where shuttle busses and crowds were the norm so, arriving here and having just busy trailheads but no lines and far fewer people made this a wonderful place to visit. Not to mention the temperatures! We had come from southern California where we had endured temps in excess of 115 degrees so the chilly, more temperate climate at the Redwoods could not have been more perfect!

This otherworldly, breathtaking park is home to some incredible hikes, stunning views, and an insane amount of wildlife. 

The two incredible hikes we completed while there were the iconic Notch Trail and Saddle Pass  along with the two epic day trips we took to the nearby Black Hills made this a most excellent stop on our two month long journey in our camper. 

Saddle Pass

Bobby worked remotely for the majority of our journey and as we were living in a 35 foot camper it meant I had to find day trips for the kids to keep the camper relatively quiet. Although, thanks to his Bose noise cancelling headphones we were able to spend rainy days in the camper without distracting him too much! While in the Badlands the kids and I headed out for a day of adventure and ended up at the Saddle Pass trailhead. 

At only .73 miles I was confident the kids and I could easily complete this hike on our own. Rowan, only 3 at the time of the trip, was still a hesitant hiker and in order to bring a daypack with water, snacks, the ten essentials, and emergency med kit I couldn’t carry her easily on my back as I do when Bobby is along on our hikes. Rowan and Jack assured me they would complete this on their own and Jack was ready to guide us and lead the way!

Little did we know just how steep this trail would be and I was soon teaching the kids the art of the butt scootch to make it safely back down after we had reached the pass and were headed back to the car.

This trail is easy to lose so be sure to look out for the trail markers along the way. We couldn’t find them for a bit but the kids were so determined to find the way they sat down quietly and waited patiently while I did some scouting and eventually found the way and we made it to the top!

I was so impressed with how well the kids listened as there were some drop offs and it was hard being solo with them. Jack was so responsible and Rowan was extra brave and made this an incredibly fun hike for all three of us!

The kids really wanted to see some wildlife so we drove on hoping to find a fun spot to eat our picnic lunch. We made our way to Robert’s Prairie Dog Town where we picnicked in the bed of the truck and enjoyed watching the little prairie dogs while munching. PSA getting a good picture of a prairie dog is hard. Like, super hard. Thankfully some buffalo crossed our path so we had proof we did actually see wildlife while out!

The Notch Trail

Since Bobby was busy working during the day we would venture out in the late afternoon before dinner time to hike and explore with him. He took us to the legendary Notch Trail. At 1.3 miles this isn’t a long hike but the ladder makes this hike extraordinary. Waiting your turn and communicating with other hikers is key to your success here. For some reason people were not alternating groups going up and down, there was just a steady stream going down… Finally, I hollered up asking if we could come up before yet another group came down. People were happy to pause and wait for us to make our way.

This trail has a lot of steep drop offs and, of course, that sketchy ladder! I was once again very grateful to have our trusty Onya Pure along so I could easily strap Rowan (a 37 lb 3 year old) to my back without any fear of her falling out, as this is a toddler-specific carrier.

This hike was really beautiful and we saw a surprising number of families out and about. This trail is very easily accessible which makes it a popular spot. We went in the evening so we missed a good deal of the crowds.

This is a great hike for people with a little more experience that don’t mind sketchy ladders and drop offs. If that doesn’t sound like your ideal, I would steer clear of this one.

Day Trip Options!

While visiting Badlands we took two day trips to the Black Hills (somewhere between 1-2 hour drive time) to visit iconic Mount Rushmore, go down an Alpine Slide, took a drive through the legendary and, sometimes harrowing Needles Hwy in Custer State Park and went mountain biking at Hanson Larsen Memorial Park

Visiting Mount Rushmore during times of COVID and construction meant we couldn’t see much, there were still crowds and the kids weren’t nearly as impressed as we thought they would be… But, we made up for that by checking out a really sweet alpine slide later that day! Rush Mountain is expensive, so only go if you are really willing to spend some money. There is a cheaper and smaller alpine slide right in Keystone that would be a better option if you’re on a budget. This place did also have a high ropes course and a cave tour which, had we had the time we might have checked out.

We opted to take the long way back to Badlands by going through Custer State Park so we could drive through the tunnels cut out of stone along the Needles Highway. This drive was so amazing and completely worth the extra time in the car with hangry kids!!

The afternoon we spent mountain biking at Hanson Larsen Memorial Park in Rapid City was hot, difficult and fun in between! When downhill mountain biking, if there is a road available you often take it up to the top as it is usually the easier option. When visiting this park, DO NOT TAKE THE ROAD!!!! It was absolutely terrible and steep and rutted and rocky and steep and terrible. Seriously, DON’T DO IT!!! I digress… Once we finally made it to the top we had a grand time coming down! However, due to that terrible road of which we will never speak again, this was a one-run trip as we were all completely exhausted after that!

Overall, our trip to the Badlands, with day trips to the Black Hills mixed in was really fun. If we were to do it again, we would probably only book a short stay at the Badlands, if at all, with more time spent staying around the Black Hills as there are a lot more options of activities in that area. 

Campground Review

We stayed at Badlands Interior Campground, at only $36 per night with our Good Sam membership you definitely get what you pay for. The pool is pretty crappy, and was frequently closed due to high chlorine levels, the playgrounds were pretty rickety but we could tell they were doing some work to improve them. The dump station is awkwardly close to tenters and difficult to access with a big rig. Bobby’s endorsement was that the Verizon cell service was good, making remote work easy! We also had neighbors that had pulled in the wrong way so our doors faced each other and they continually walked through our campsite so that definitely made things more awkward… I wouldn’t stay here again and would rate it about 2 stars for the above reasons. 

The town itself has no services and was pretty sketchy, we had to drive a long way to find a grocery store and, even then, it was a small country market without many options but, friendly staff. The National Park has a campground just down the road and I would try and get in there next time, or find a spot in the Black Hills and day trip to the Badlands.

This trip was our first opportunity to use our new Tarptent Hogback! Setting it up in a desert, with rock hard ground, proved interesting as it’s not freestanding. Instead, it relies on stakes to maintain its structure unlike a typical tent which relies on poles. We made use of all the larger boulders in our campsite to hold it up and were happy with the results. We were grateful we had brought lots of extra rope along courtesy of Cooke Custom Sewing!  My only critique of this style of tent is little kids and guylines makes for a lot of falls. But, they eventually figured it out and the spacious interior of this lightweight tent quickly made up for any frustration!

While we only visited the park for 3 days and 2 nights we got in a lot of hiking and exploring. This park is massive and there are so many amazing things to see.

Badlands Loop

We were so excited to be in the warm desert so, we had to fit in a hike before bedtime! We headed to Zabriskie Point a popular roadside overlook. Leaving the crowds behind we embarked on the path less traveled along the 2.7 mile Badlands Loop. The kids were sooooo excited and happily walked/ran the whole trail. There were a few steep drop offs that made us a bit nervous and we had some stern conversations about listening carefully and holding hands when asked.

As it was New Years Eve (and my birthday) and the hike went long and we would’ve been cooking in the dark we decided to treat ourselves to the over-priced buffet at the resort (The Ranch) just down the hill from our campground. We also bought a lamp from the general store as we had foolishly forgotten ours at home. We also desperately needed sticks for marshmallows since there aren’t many options around the barren desert landscape for makeshift skewers! My amazing birthday present was my babies singing ‘Happy Birthday’ to me while sitting around a campfire.

The morning was chilly and we had to start a fire to warm up as we anxiously waited for the sun to make its way up and into our site.

Keane Wonder Mine

On the warmest day of our trip (Temps in the 60s!) we hiked up to the Keane Wonder Mine, a gold mine that began operations in 1907. This mine features a remarkable aerial tram used for transporting the gold down the mountains. The hike is hard with 1,500 feet of elevation gain in only 1.4 miles. The ranger told us that it is by far the steepest hike in the park. Jack surged ahead and led us the whole way, patiently waiting for us to catch up! Rowan loved the hike as the ground was littered with sparkly, glittering rocks of all colors and getting her to walk forward while her hands were loaded down with her treasures was a challenge.

The staggering size and breadth of this project was unbelievable at times. Explaining to the kids that this was all built before bulldozers and trucks and any modern convenience was a difficult concept for all of us to grasp.

We played fun games, counting the number of mine shafts we could see and avoiding the millions of rusty nails and other odd detritus leftover that littered the trail. Finding a place to eat lunch with no debris and cacti proved tricky…

Most of the mine shafts have been completely blocked off with lots of terrifying warnings like “Unstable Explosives” out in front. One open door led to a shaft that was completely barricaded a few short steps inside but was still neat to see. Although Rowan wasn’t a huge fan…

The hike up was steep and we were happy to have made it to the top and see old mining cars, track, building remnants, and numerous mine shafts. 

On the hike down we had a classic Marko moment when we encountered a fellow family heading up. Bobby and Jack had been ahead of us and I could hear remnants of their conversation as Rowan and I made our way down. I heard Bobby telling them, “You’re almost there!” As I neared them I laughed and told them they were nowhere near the top and had lots of elevation gain and probably close to 3/4 of a mile to go. The kids (probably 9-11) seemed a little disheartened by this information and the mother proclaimed, “If this FIVE year old can do it, so can you!”

Mosaic Canyon

We did a brief stroll through Mosaic Canyon, an out and back hike that can be up to 4 miles roundtrip. As we had already hiked so much at the Keane Wonder Mine we opted to just get a glimpse of the mosaic walls and spent only a brief time exploring this area.

This is a very popular spot in the park so please remember patience and grace for your fellow hikers. We met a group of older hikers who were struggling to make it up and down some bigger steps on the trail. Unfortunately, several young hikers began pushing their way through the crowd and demanding that they “were trying to get through!” No offers of help were given only frustration at having to be slowed down. It was disappointing to see…

Mesquite Flat Dunes

Whenever we are near a sand dune we know it’s a must stop and see! The Mesquite Flat Dunes are a huge attraction at the park and we had a blast playing there! After a long day of hiking it was great to spend some awesome time playing and being silly. The parking lot is right there making these dunes accessible to all!

Badwater Basin

One of the coolest things about Death Valley is that it is home to the lowest point in North America. At 282 feet below sea level Badwater Basin is an easy, quick must-see photo op when visiting the park.

This was a mere pit stop for us on our way to a longer hike during our last day in the park. Many people were walking to the exact lowest point (the sign isn’t actually where it is) but we had some fun jumping over puddles and then headed to the hike we had planned.

Sidewinder Canyon

We love slot canyons so when we read about the Sidewinder Canyon in Death Valley we knew we wanted to find it. The Park Service has this trail marked as “Extremely Difficult”. The hike itself isn’t too hard but the unmarked, difficult to find trail does make it more challenging than most National Park hikes.

We had a solid GPS track downloaded onto both of our phones using the GAIA GPS app and pictures of all the guidebooks descriptions. Some people are hesitant to rely on their phones due to the fear of running out of battery. So, we always bring along a battery pack for emergencies. We also were sure to bring along our newly purchased lantern as we had read that some of the slot canyons were dark.

The beginning of this hike is pretty unpleasant and grueling. Hiking through gravel in itself is miserable, add to that being in full sun AND a fairly steep, uphill grade made it an overall difficult first mile. We were all pretty tired from the long day before and the whining level from everybody was pretty intense. I was, as always, grateful for our Sunday Afternoon hats protecting the fair, MN winter skin of the kiddos.

As soon as we reached the first slot canyon and found ourselves climbing through holes in rocks and exploring caves, all misery of the hike up was soon forgotten.

It was really neat to be in a slot canyon without smooth walls. When visiting Utah, the rocks and canyons were so different, so it was fun to talk with the kids about different rocks and environments. Jack was doing a great job being the leader and looking for routes that Rowan could do on her own. Rowan, being Rowan was less than thrilled with her tour guide and insisted on leading and finding her own way. Learning to share the job responsibilities associated with trail guide is a difficult lesson indeed but we worked through it and found joy in taking turns. Eventually…

This was our final hike and, after exploring two of the three slot canyons, we decided to head back to the car before everybody was melting down. Sometimes, as a parent deciding when to turn back is difficult. We always want to see and do it all yet it’s important to remember the limits of the kids along on the trip. Seeing it all doesn’t ensure a good time but has the potential to ruin it. We may not have seen all three canyons to explore on this hike, but as the whining intensified on the hike out we knew we’d made the right call.

Death Valley was so incredibly amazing and we were happy to have spent some sunny, warm days in such a beautiful place.

Utah is home to a plethora of stunningly beautiful National and State Parks. Neighboring states like Arizona, Nevada, Idaho, and Colorado make Utah an ultimate U.S. road trip destination with plenty to do and see along the way and in the surrounding areas.

We have visited Canyonlands National Park, Arches National Park, Dead Horse Point State Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, Kodachrome Basin State Park, Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, Horseshoe Bend, Lake Powell, The Grand Canyon, Zion National Park, and Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park during our trips to Utah. The possibilities truly are endless and despite spending close to a month exploring the state non-stop we still feel as though we have only scratched the surface and there is much more to see.

We have hiked extensively in the area and have chosen our seven favorite hiking spots we have discovered and wanted to share them. The children along on these hikes have ranged in age from 1-5 years old.

1. Buckskin Gulch

Buckskin Gulch is known as the world’s longest slot canyon and, according to Backpacker Magazine, one of the most dangerous hikes in America. The risk of flash flooding is very real and very deadly here so make sure you are hiking on a dry day.

This hike begins with a brief hike through a wash before entering Wire Pass.

The cool reprieve of the canyon walls is welcome after the initial hike in full sun. It was amazing to go from a normal hike in the desert to feeling like we were entering a different world within the smooth, colorful walls of the canyon.

There is one section of the trail that requires an 8 foot down climb. Having additional adults along to help get kids up and down is definitely helpful. There is a way around the down climb by going up and around to the right of the canyon. The down climb from the alternate route can be slippery and difficult to navigate but we did it both ways and everybody made it without incident.

We hiked as far as the petroglyphs which can be found 1.7 miles in as Wire Pass meets up with Buckskin Gulch in a large rock amphitheater. The petroglyphs were remarkable and we love finding these historical symbols as often as we can.

We only did a brief out and back (3.4 miles) of this hike that is 20.6 miles and generally takes 2 days to accomplish. We knew we would never do it all, but we wanted to see it and explore the area.

Pro Tip: Don’t let a hike with long mileage scare you away when planning a trip with children. Just do a section of the trip and be happy with what you get to see along that shorter section!

2. Red Canyon

On every trip we like to splurge on one tour or popular local attraction. Our family had never gone off roading before and when we found Kanab Tour Company we were stoked to find a safe, easy way to get right to Red Canyon (aka Peek-a-Boo Canyon). The side-by-sides we rented were super fun and the kid’s carseats fit so we knew they were safe and secure.

Also, at the time hiking 4.7 miles was beyond the kid’s ability levels, and walking through squishy sand makes it all the more difficult to keep little legs moving. Zipping around the sand dunes in these sweet rides was way more fun than any of us anticipated! Our friends Jess, Daniel, and Skylar (age 4.5) were along for this trip!

We pulled directly up to the canyon and got a personalized tour of the area. One of the things we love about guided tours is getting the inside scoop from locals who know the area really well. Our guide, Cory, talked about how the canyon has changed over the years and through the seasons. He knew just where to look for all the unique features of the canyon (like fossils!) and interesting tidbits that both adults and children appreciated.

The canyon itself is a brief and beyond stunning 1/2 mile that the kids easily walked.

I can’t say enough about the guides we had on this trip. They went the extra mile to make sure the kids were engaged and we all had an amazing time! We even met up with one of our guides and his family afterwards and had a blast hanging out and playing. Traveling with young children and making friends along the way is one of my favorite things!

Our guides took us to a few other noteworthy sites including ruins from an old Indian settlement complete with petroglyphs and pottery shards. If you want an in-depth and easily accessible way to view this awesome place just north of Kanab I highly recommend hiring a guide and off-roading it.

Pro Tip: If you have young children along bring your own bike helmets as they didn’t have helmets small enough for 2 year old Rowan. The 4 year olds and adults were fine. Adults aren’t required to wear helmets but we all did so the kids didn’t feel singled out.

3. Panorama Trail

This 2.9 mile loop trail found in Kodacrome Basin State Park is a great place to bring kids and see some truly remarkable monolithic stone spires.

This is a relatively flat hike that can be made up to 6 miles long. We didn’t go quite that far with our little ones on this trip, but we still saw amazing views, beautiful sandstone pipes and had a lot of fun along the way. Jack and Rowan were so happy to be in a warm, snow-free environment so there was a lot of horseplay going on! They kept pretending to be bears chasing us it was great, dirty fun!

This hike takes hikers past six major features including the stunning Ballerina Spire and Hat Shop. We weren’t planning on stopping here and had initially planned to explore nearby Bryce Canyon National Park more, but we were there in January and the park was mostly closed due to snow. Kodachrome State Park is only 30 minutes away but so much warmer!

Pro Tip: If the weather is crappy and plans are going off the rails, don’t panic! Find alternatives, talk to locals, and figure out a new plan that works for everybody. Being flexible when traveling, especially with children, is the key to a fantastic adventure-filled vacation!

4. Chesler Park

Canyonlands National Park remains my absolute favorite National Park of all time (so far…). We visited 3 years ago and I still vividly remember this trail and this day. The Chesler Park Loop is super long at 11.7 miles and listed as a strenuous hike on the NPS website. We knew we wouldn’t do the whole thing and our goal was to make it to one of the large fractures in the rocks and maybe all the way to the Needles overlook.

We saw all the weather along this hike including rain, snow and sun. That’s one of the joys of traveling during the shoulder seasons, you never know what to expect in regards to the weather.

Pro Tip: Be sure to bring along a W.A.G. bag for human waste disposal if hiking for extended periods of time. In Canyonlands cat holes aren’t allowed so you either have to hold it in until to return to the trailhead and the privies found there or bring along a human waste disposal bag. Jack ended up needing to poop and we found ourselves without the appropriate bag, thankfully we did have a dog poop bag along so we were able to pack it out. Bobby quickly became the caboose of our crew as the odor was a little strong…

One of the really amazing things about this hike is all the different landscapes we hiked through, around, over, and under. Unexpected and beautiful sights seemed to be around every turn.

We did end up making it all the way to the Needles overlook and we were struck dumb by the beauty and the strangeness of this unparalleled area.

One of our favorite parts about this hike was we only saw two other hikers all day long. Finding that level of solitude on a hike that children can do is rare, but that’s what you find within Canyonlands.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BfPjKnzB_6n/

5. Delicate Arch

Delicate Arch may be the most iconic symbol in the whole state of Utah (it’s literally on the license plates).  There are two ways to view the arch. One is an ADA 0.5 mile paved trail to an overlook. We opted for the more difficult and scenic 3.1 mile hike through the park. This hike begins with a sweet bonus of petroglyphs! Just follow the short spur trail off to the right as you begin the hike to view some spectacular, ancient petroglyphs.

As we were there in February it was snowing regularly and the trail was icy and slippery. Looking back on these photos I often wonder what we were thinking! At the time, it didn’t feel quite so intense and scary. The final section of the trail is by far the most harrowing. The nice thing is the rock wall on the one side is very nice for making you feel more secure. However, this is a popular hike with two-way traffic which can make this narrow trail seem impossibly small. Go slow, be patient, and be kind and you’ll make it!

Jack was 3 at the time of this trip and having a toddler-sized soft structured carrier along is key for those sketchy (or whiney) moments on the trail. At the time of this hike we used our LilleBaby Complete Airflow but have since changed to the Onya Pure. I really like both carriers, the Onya is now our mainstay as it is a little more lightweight and less bulky, making it better for bringing along on backpacking trips.

Pro Tip: Take wet, muddy shoes off of kids after putting them in a carrier to prevent getting yourself wet and muddy.

If traveling during the wet season be sure to come prepared with waterproof shoes. There were many spots of running water and spontaneous waterfalls along this trail. As the day progressed and warmed the water on the trail only increased as the overnight snow continued to melt.

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6. Corona Arch

As the hike to Corona Arch (2.3 miles out and back) isn’t on National Park land it is popular amongst dog owners as pets are welcome! I was shocked to see a three-legged dog along this trail has several ladders needed to be navigated. I gaped and asked the owner how he managed, she just smiled and said “He finds a way!”

As the beginning of this hike is relatively flat and uninteresting along the way (in other words no big boulders to climb up and over and other things that little kids love about trails) I found myself carrying Jack most of the way. The trail does get more technical with ladders and chains, but we did this hike near the end of our trip so Jack was tired and I carried him almost the whole way. Which was totally fine as I wouldn’t have felt super comfortable having him navigate some of the obstacles along the way.

Corona Arch can be a very popular place so we were very happy to find ourselves enjoying it almost completely solo! We met a few other hikers along the way and while marveling at this massive wonder we weren’t battling hoards of people. Again, shoulder season hiking during the week is the BEST!

Rowan insisted on walking a ways on this trail which was a painfully slow experience, but we find as parents it’s best to encourage and appreciate any effort put in by the kids along on a trip. We try to always encourage and applaud every success.

Pro Tip: When little feet stop working, start distracting! Play games, sing songs, and be silly! Try hard not to get frustrated and do your best to stay positive! That attitude quickly rubs off on the kids and makes the whole trip more fun for everyone!

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7. Canyon Overlook Trail

Zion National Park is ridiculously popular. I’ve done many hikes there, including the famous Angels Landing which I would never bring children on. The Canyon Overlook Trail is only 1 mile long and VERY popular. The small pullout and parking lot fill up quickly. BUT, due to the shortness of the hike traffic moves in and out and a relatively quick pace. I’ve done this hike at sunrise and midday both had us encountering full parking and lots of people. Both times I absolutely loved this hike.

Hikers are protected from the drop-offs by railings and walking along the edge of a precipice can be nerve-racking for the more timid hiker. For us it was shear fun with lots of “Slow, walking feet” thrown into the mix.

Kids, generally speaking, aren’t terribly interested in stunning vistas that can capture the attention of adults for extended periods of time. Remember, when hiking with children make it about them and let them have the fun they need and want. We found little holes to climb in, sticks to play with, and sand to draw in while at this stunning vista.

Pro Tip: Consider a hiking harness for walking-aged children who still can’t really be trusted near drop-offs. This prevents power struggles and “I can do it, I’m okay” statements and arguments. Our kids know that sometimes they have to wear a hiking harness to be safe or we can’t do the hike. Bobby actually sewed the kids harnesses out of webbing. You could also use a rock climbing harness instead.

Be Prepared for the Conditions

Ireland also presents a unique challenge with hiking due to the completely unpredictable weather patterns the island is notorious for, the say if you’re unhappy with the weather in Ireland just wait five minutes and it will change. During our two week visit we definitely found that sentiment to be true.

The boggy nature of the island also means that despite a completely dry day and hiking in the blazing sun your shoes need to be waterproof because the peat bogs cover 17% of the land in Ireland. Bogs can even be found atop mountains and will be a squelching, oozing mess no matter the weather. Both Bobby and I had packed our Altra’s, a lightweight trail running shoe that definitely wasn’t up to the terrain we found in Ireland and my feet suffered the consequence of our poor footwear choice.

Be sure to pack along extra layers and solid rain gear. For children I always promote single-piece rainsuits. They keep the child warm and dry from wind, rain, sleet and snow. For years we have used the OAKI rainsuit as I felt it was the best product on the market. However, Stonz is now making a rainsuit that I feel outperforms the OAKI suit in a few really awesome ways. First off it is markedly lighter weight and compresses down much smaller than the OAKI suit which is preferable for smaller daypacks. It also has a zip along the legs of the suit which allows kids to take this on and off without needing to remove shoes AND makes potty breaks much easier. The OAKI suit is thicker so does offer more wind protection but we just added an additional fleece layer under the suit on windier, colder days and that kept the kiddos nice and comfortable while on the trail.

We encountered slanting rain, drizzles, and downpours on this journey and were grateful for our rain gear on every trek. For adults we recommend OR as our preferred brand.

For shoes for the tiny hikers we love KEENS and Merell brands that all offer a waterproof variety for young kiddos. Not only will most trails be wet, or water-logged most all are generously covered in sheep, cow, or horse manure. The novelty of which never seemed to wear off on our kiddos… Keeping little feet dry and clean made hiking in Ireland all that much easier.

Dealing with Drop-Offs

A lot of the hiking we did on these coastal peninsulas of Ireland were along the oceanside and, therefore, had a lot of steep drop-off sections. Dealing with small, unruly children in these settings can be scary and potentially dangerous. We use a homemade hiking harness for Jack, but a climbing harness could serve the same purpose utilizing a bit of webbing as a leash to help keep older children safe.

As Rowan is still just two years old and not yet 30 pounds we use the Onya Baby Pure. This infant to toddler carrier is my absolute favorite carrier for larger children as it remains comfortable for me and the kiddo I’m carrying. (Even 5 year old Jack still fits in it in a pinch.) Rowan still loves her carrier and given the option would rather be carried than use her own hiking harness. Plus, it gives me a good workout and allows us to maintain a steadier pace so I love having her in it during hikes or even touring around town.

Favorite Hikes

There were two big hiking highlights from our recent trip to the Dingle Peninsula and County Galway in Ireland.

Sunset Walk

This hike begins at a house, where parking is made available and a €5 donation is recommended. The trail is well maintained and signed. We were greeted by a friendly dog in the carpark who accompanied us on the first portion of our trek through the sheep pastures. There are gates along the route so be sure to close any gates that were closed when you arrived. Always leave gates as you find them. There was also an electric fence along a section of the trail that was well signed so we had some interesting conversations with the kids about that!

This hike takes you to a filming location from Star Wars the Last Jedi and Luke’s meditation rock.

This is a short, easy 20 minute walk but we decided to continue of to the “Three Sisters” which are three tall mountains right along the coast that we could actually see from our rental home just a few short miles away. Jack had been begging to hike the sisters since we had arrived so he was stoked to finally get the chance!

The trail up was steep but the spectacularly stunning views that surrounded us made the hike exceptionally worth every step. Jack was scared as we hiked due to his anxieties around tectonic plate movement and erosion. His intelligence can cause problems occasionally and this was one of those times as he continually posited questions wondering if pieces of the cliffs where we were hiking would break apart as the waves crashed far below us. Hiking always presents opportunities for education but those bigger concepts can be frightening to a young mind who may not be able to grasp the concepts we discuss in their entirety.

We reached the shortest of the Three Sisters and opted to turn around and head back to our car. It is possible to continue the hike and summit all three sisters in secession but we hadn’t come prepared with lunches and the imminent hour of hangry was rapidly approaching.

If you are in the Dingle area and have time for one hike do this one. No road walking, easy access, and we had the trail all to ourselves on a rare rainless day.

Diamond Hill

Located in County Galway within Connemara National Park this was the biggest mountain Jack had ever attempted on his own two feet. With 1200 feet (386 meters) of elevation gain and close to 4 miles (6.1 km) in distance this was a huge feat for a 37 lb 5 year old. Most every day Jack asks to climb a mountain and this day certainly didn’t disappoint.

This is a very popular trail so we were grateful for our early risers as we didn’t have to deal with too many other hikers as we made or ascent. By midday the trail was full of hikers and a steady stream of people made their way up the well maintained and trail. Hundreds of rock steps and wooden boardwalks made this hike enjoyable and doable with plenty of proper signage encouraging a steady flow up and down the mountain along the lollipop trail.

The views got progressively more impressive as we made the near vertical ascent up the mountainside. 

Upon reaching the summit we felt as though we were on top of the world. The sun shone hot and steady and we enjoyed clear views of this remarkable landscape. We could also see Kylemore Abbey, a stunning castle, turned abbey, turned school, turned museum which we had visited the day before.

Jack had an enormous grin and his self confidence was soaring after he successfully summited his largest mountain to date without asking for any assistance from us. He proudly exclaimed, “Can you believe I did that without once asking for you to carry me, Mommy?” I really couldn’t! Bobby and I were beyond proud of him.

The hike down takes you along the backside of the mountain before meeting back up with the original trail down. As always the way down was way harder for us grownups as knee and ankle joints took the beating associated with a downhill hike. Jack ran almost the entire way down and wanted to continue playing outside on the playground located outside the visitor center.

We know that we barely scratched the surface of the hiking opportunities available to us in beautiful Ireland and we know we’ll be back for more one day. Jack sobbed on our last night in Ireland wondering, “Why can’t we just live here? There’s still so much more hiking for us to do.”

That sentiment may have been one of the single most proud moments in our parenting journey thus far. Our trip to Ireland was a wonderful introduction into the world of international traveling and hiking.

In the end we found 5 hikes that our toddler and preschooler loved! While some of the hikes were busier then we would normally have liked the views and trips along the trails were worth it.

Hidden Lake

This is THE hike to do when visiting the tallest drivable point in the park, Logan Pass. After surviving the harrowing journey up the famous Going to the Sun Road your next task will prove to be even more challenging, finding a parking spot. They say you need to arrive before 9:00 a.m. to get a spot. That seemed to hold true for us as we arrived shortly after 9:00 a.m. and watched as the last spot was taken. We were fortunate to find parking at the next shuttle stop down and took the shuttle back to the top. At the time we were traveling with my sister and her three children and quickly learned that getting a shuttle all together would be impossible. We split into three groups in order to make it to the top.

The hike resembled a highway with a steady stream of hikers dotting the landscape.

Wildlife was also very busy along this route. We saw bighorn sheep, mountain goats, and marmots.

We were visiting the park mid July and weren’t surprised to see that portions of the trail were still snow covered.

Pro Tip: Bring along collapsable trekking poles. They proved very helpful while navigating steep, snowy inclines for all of us. Collapsable allows the height to be adjusted for all hikers and easily stowed away in a backpack when not needed.

It would be easy for kids to get frustrated or scared by the slippery snow so we tried to make it as fun as possible. We slipped and slid alongside them and giggled rather than bemoan the aches in our calf muscles. We brought along a soft structured carrier for Jack in case he wasn’t able to, or didn’t want to cross sections of the trail. We only needed it once but were grateful to have it along. As for the toddler, she spent most of the hike in her pack. The snow was just too tricky for her.

The trail is a combination of pavement, boardwalk, snow, and dirt. If you happen to be there during the rare moments when snow doesn’t still cover portions of it I would say most toddlers and preschoolers would have no problem completing the 1.3 mile hike to the lookout at Hidden Lake.

Another bonus to this hike is the fact that you get to cross the Continental Divide on the way to the lookout, something I always enjoy seeing. Most hikers continue the hike down towards the lake itself. However, at the time of our visit there was Grizzly Bear Activity in the area, and for the safety of both wildlife and human life the trail was closed and all hikers had to return back to the overcrowded visitor center. Rowan was grateful when the snowfields were in our rearview mirror and she was able to stretch her legs along the boardwalk. She loved jumping down each stair and brought many smiles to other hikers heading up.

While we generally try to avoid popular hikes due to our dislike of crowds I would put this hike near the top of any ‘must-see while in Glacier’ list. The views, the wildlife, and the ease with which you get to see it all make the parking headache well worth it.

Aster Park Overlook

We had originally planned to do some water sports on Two Medicine Lake after our 2 hour drive to the east side of the park but upon arrival we found ourselves bombarded with strong winds. We opted to hike the 4 mile trail to the top of Aster Park Overlook.

The trail took us into the woods and away from the winds. We wandered through fields of wildflowers and were once again grateful for the plant ID card we had purchased at the visitor center early on in our trip.

Our trip started off rough with an early fall by Rowan who had already scraped her knee badly on a previous hike. She managed to rip open all her scabs and add some new ouchies to her banged up knee.

Despite what was surely a painful injury Rowan insisted on walking. After cleaning it up and covering it with our favorite Tegaderm she kept trekking along like a total boss.

Pro Tip: For parents who intend to do lots of backcountry exploring with children, we highly recommend taking a NOLS Wilderness First Aid course. It helped give me the confidence and knowledge I needed to enter serious backcountry situations with my kids along.

 One of the things I loved about this trail was its variations. We got to cross bridges, see wildflowers in a beautiful meadow with a mountainous backdrop, forested sections giving us a reprieve from the hot sun, a waterfall after a short (and well-worth) detour, fun elevation gain, and spectacular views at the end.

This trail had it all and was doable for our preschooler despite his tantrums and volatile emotions of the day.

One of the best parts of this hike was how few people we saw. We arrived here early and got one of the first spots in the lot. We only saw a handful of other people on our way up.

Once we made it back to Two Medicine Lake we got to swim and relax on the shore after a hot and sweaty trek. There’s a large visitor center and flush toilets near the parking area as well. By the time we were back at the parking area it was full and people were everywhere. Sometimes traveling with tiny humans that wake up far too early does have its advantages!

St Mary Area Waterfalls

The best destinations to hike when kids are along are waterfalls because kids love all things water. The trek we took from the Sun Point parking area brought us past three different waterfalls. At 5 miles this was by far the farthest we’ve hiked in awhile with our two kiddos and we were grateful to have cousins along with us to encourage our kids to keep hiking.

Pro tip: Kids will often hike better (and with less complaining) in a group setting. Bring along a friend or relative whenever you can.

Though lengthy, this hike is relatively flat and very scenic making the miles easy going. You begin hiking through an old burn and the kids loved touching the charred bark of the partially standing trees. We had brought along a flower identification card and enjoyed naming all the pioneer species we were seeing.

The first waterfall, Baring Falls, is an impressive 25 foot drop with lots of exploring to do around its base.

Several of the kiddos in our crew wanted a closer look at the falls. Be careful because it’s no fun when a shoe falls in the water and you’re left with a soggy sock and shoe all day (not that that happened or anything…).

Continue along the trail, traveling alongside stunning St. Mary’s Lake until you reach St. Mary Falls.

This one we didn’t stay long as it wasn’t a safe spot to stop with young, running toddlers.

Further down the trail is where it started to get busier with more hikers as we neared Virginia Falls. This is a multi-tiered waterfall with multiple viewpoints. Keep going until you reach the spectacular top where water cascades down the rocks for 50 feet.

Follow the signs for the privy and you’ll come to a great spot for relaxing on the rocks and splashing in some shallow pools of water. All kids the opportunity to play and explore after having spent so much time walking along a dusty trail. If you need the facilities be sure to bring your own toilet paper and an ability to hold your breath. The tiny pit toilet has a door that must be kept closed due to bears so it’s not a spot I would linger at.

Argue amongst your fellow hikers as to which waterfall you found the most beautiful as you trek back the way you came towards the St. Mary’s Shuttle stop and catch a shuttle back to the Sun Point parking area.

If you are like us, and had been waiting for over 45 minutes for a shuttle that didn’t seem to be coming send the strongest hikers the 1.5 miles back to the parking area and have them come pick you up.

Stanton Lake

Located in the Flathead National Forest this hike is a great way to explore a less busy and equally scenic part of the area without entering the park. It is a more strenuous hike with 4.3 miles and 750 feet of elevation gain.

This trail is lined with some seriously tall berry bushes and is prime bear habitat. Be sure to be noisy and bring bear spray along on this trail. Hiking this trail during peak Huckleberry season is fantastically fun as the kids race to find the next patch of ripe berries. It does also slow them down a bit… But, the sweet juicy berries are well worth the added time on the trail.

The trail can be rather steep at times and it does have sections with fairly high drop-offs. Keep small children close in sight. We always bring along a carrier for each child, a frame pack for the toddler, and a lightweight soft structured carrier for the preschooler. Not only is this gear helpful when kiddos get too tired and whiney but are also a great way to keep kids safe in more rugged terrain.

Pro tip: if you have a child that doesn’t want to get in the carrier have special treats that can only be enjoyed while in the pack. We use suckers as a motivator for getting them into (or out of, whichever the case may be) the carrier.

The effort needed for this hike is well worth it as Stanton Lake is surrounded by mountains and has crystal clear waters.

We packed in two small inner tubes bought from the dollar store and blew them up lakeside, letting the kiddos float and cool off. Bringing along additional items like swimwear, towels, and inner tubes does make packs heavier for the adults on the crew, but it also means the kiddos have that much more fun and the memories made are totally worth it!

Trail of the Cedars

This is one of those iconic hikes that most do when visiting Glacier. It’s easily accessible to all ability levels at only 1 mile roundtrip and mostly walking on well maintained boardwalks.

The trees in this area are truly remarkable and well worth the headache that parking may present. Arrive early or come late in the evening. This is also a hike where views aren’t that important so don’t worry if it’s raining or cloudy as it will possibly be even more majestic on a gloomy day.

Most of my family joined us for all or part of this trek out to Glacier and this was the one hike we decided to do all together. All 24 of us with a vast array of ages, abilities, and moods were able to successfully complete this beautiful loop.

We began the loop on the east side, walking along the boardwalk and reading the beautiful Haiku that follows along the trail. A bridge leads hikers to a stunning waterfall on Avalanche Creek. It felt like a secret mermaid cove. The rounded rocks, the beautiful blue water, it was as if we were watching an absolutely stunning piece of art, made by Mother Nature.

The children we had on this hike were 13 in number ranging in age from 3 months to 11 years. All had a great time exploring this magical, ancient forest. Many found inch worms along the way and all enjoyed splashing in the creek before reaching the end.

Pro Tip: When some are fast and some are slow give the older kids a job. Assign a younger child to them. The added responsibility makes them feel that the slower pace isn’t too bad.

A perk to this trail are the flush toilets you pass on the way out when walking along the boundary of the campground.

More intrepid hikers will frequently link the Trail of the Cedars to the longer, more difficult hike up to Avalanche Lake. We completed this trail when our kids were napping and Grandma and Grandpa were watching them (love traveling with family). It was a more rugged hike that younger children, preschool and up, could complete on their own. Allow ample time and bring plenty of food and water along to ensure happy hikers on this more difficult route.

We ended our day on the trail by letting the kids splash in the rocks and shallow pools of Avalanche Creek. It was our final day in Glacier and nobody wanted it to end.

Spending time in and around Glacier National Park is bucket list worthy thing to be sure. Being there with all of my sisters, my parents, and so many nieces and nephews was a dream come true.

Our first day was spent in the Island in the Sky District, located at the north end of the park. It’s about a 40 minute drive from Moab, through many open range roads (watch out for those cows!). We had a list of four, short hikes we wanted to do but, the kiddos in our group would determine what hikes we would ultimately accomplish. We opted to drive to the southern terminus of the Grand View Point Road to hike to Grand View Point. This short and flat 1 mile trail is spectacular in never-ending views. The trail wasn’t safe for Jack or Rowan to do on their own, due to cliffs and major drop-offs. We used the hiking harness Bobby sewed before leaving home and our wonderful Lillebaby Airflow Complete along with our Osprey Poco Premium to keep the kiddos safe. Jack is too heavy to have comfortably in the Poco anymore so, our toddler friendly soft structured carrier works great for him.

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It was a chilly, cloudy morning that made the views even more spectacular. We had been worried that the unforcasted clouds would ruin our day but we couldn’t have been more wrong. We felt like we were in a magical land of rock and cloud.

We had a snack while looking out over a view that will be hard to top before turning around and heading back to our truck and the next trail.

We headed north on Grand View Point Road, towards the exit of the park, and drove the 6 miles to the previously passed Mesa Arch Trail. This trail is so easy, even a baby can do it! Seriously, Rowan insisted on walking this trail ALL on her own! She made it the whole 0.5 mile loop to this stunning, iconic arch.

This was one of those moments on the trail that we were grateful for having multiple adults along. We traded off walking the phenomenally slow and painful speed of Rowan while the others kept up with running, jumping Jack. We met a lovely family of Minnesotans on the trail whose grown daughter took to Jack and played endlessly with him in the sand.

The number of kind and caring people we met on this trip is as numerous as the number of arches and crazy rock formations we saw!

It was time for some lunch but the wind had picked up and we were grateful for the topper on our truck bed. We ate inside, unbothered by the wind and unworried about spills of toddlers. The kids were doing great and we were all excited to do another hike. We drove a little over a mile on Upheaval Dome Road to the trailhead.

Bobby had set a goal of two hikes for the day and we were taking our first steps on the third trail of the day! Aztec Butte is a one mile round trip trek on a sandy trail covered in Cougar tracks. The den of this cat must’ve been close by and I kept a constant scan of the landscape for any sign. The trail was flat and Jack was walking on his own so I was on heightened alert, knowing that, though cougar and human interactions are rare, children are the most vulnerable member of a crew. We were also making a ton of noise with our two kids and conversation so, we would’t be sneaking up on anybody, or anything, anytime soon. Cougars are most active at dusk and before dawn and we were hiking in the early afternoon so, overall we weren’t too concerned. If you have worries about cougars and aren’t sure how to handle a cougar encounter on the trail, many resources are available.

This trail is well signed and a side path leads hikers to a granary, perched on the side of the first butte. A steep climb up a slab of slickrock leads to a view from the butte.

These granaries are well hidden and difficult to see from a distance, unless you know to look for them. A sketchy traverse along a section of sandy, slickrock and you can sit next to these ancient structures. Remember not to touch them, and do not enter.

A capstone would’ve covered these 700 year old small doorways that housed food for traveling tribes. It is remarkable to think that ancient, native peoples could survive in such a harsh environment.

Had we been so inclined, we could’ve continued along the Aztec Butte trail to the actual butte, the second along the trail, however, previous trip reports had us opting out. Hikers warned of steep, slippery slickrock and a trail that was fairly vertical in assent. With our two small children we decided to call it a day and be happy with what we had seen.

Three hikes done and we were ready for more! We couldn’t believe how well the kids, and we, were doing so we continued east on Upheaval Dome Road. for 4 miles to the end of the road and our final trailhead of the day, Upheaval Dome. This hike leads to something totally out of this world. Never before have we seen anything like this on any hike we’ve done anywhere. There are a couple of theories about how this crazy geological marvel was created so to get a good look at it, and form your own theories, be sure to continue your trek past the first overlook and onto the Crater View Trail for a remarkable vista of this 3 mile wide mystery.

If anybody knows why the rocks have such a greenish hue we would love to know and couldn’t find that answer anywhere!

At only 1.6 miles and 300 feet of elevation gain, this isn’t a difficult hike, but we were tired and we trudged along this rocky, undulating trail. We marveled at the steps, worn into the sides of the rock and had to check ourselves regularly as losing the trail was easy to do amongst all these rocks.

After a full day of hiking Jack was tired, and the trail was definitely not kid-friendly so, I had my 30 pound, chatterbox backpack on the whole time. We played one of our favorite trail games, ‘What can you hear?’ to give my ears and brain brief reprieves from the endless monologue that Jack bestows upon us throughout the day.

The viewpoint was worth all the effort and we couldn’t believe we had done FOUR different hikes in one day! They were all short but were so varied in aesthetics that it felt like a rollercoaster of a beautiful day!

Our bodies were beyond exhausted when we finally made the return trip to the truck and we were ready for some food, rest, and of course Olympics! Seriously, traveling during the Olympics is so fun, we watched way more than we ever would have if we were at home. Go USA curling!

When all was said and done we spent 4 days hiking around Arches National Park. Our top three hikes in the park are varied in difficulty and length. Each one presents a unique view of this special park. We got to have many of these spots to ourselves as we were exploring mid-week and during the off-season.

We are big fans of traveling during shoulder seasons. Everything is cheaper, less crowded, and we are not easily scared off by inclement weather. Though our days weren’t necessarily filled with sunshine and shorts, we didn’t let ourselves be held back and explored all the same with layers on and positive, grateful attitudes. Even Jack became fond of saying things like, “It’s snowing Mommy but, we don’t care! Let’s go hiking!”

The Windows

Parking Area: End of Windows Road
Miles: 1
Elevation Gain: 140 feet
Difficulty: Easy

This section of the park is the perfect spot to bring young children to, there is a grouping of arches all within a short distance of one another with easy, short trails to follow. The day we were there, chubby snowflakes were blowing about as winds howled through the arches and windows. We laughed and frolicked in the unforeseen, and unexpected, weather as we explored this magical place while only seeing two other hikers.

Turret Arch

We opted to explore the lollipop trail with a spur to South Window clockwise first viewing the North Window followed by the South Window and finally Turret Arch.

North Window

All told this trail is less then a mile. There is an optional primitive trail leading north that can be taken back to the parking lot if so chosen. There is another trailhead on the north loop of Windows Road where views of Double Arch are also available with minimal effort (.5 mile) but a big payoff. The only downside to these incredibly scenic spots is their popularity. The parking lots fill up quickly and the number of people can be overwhelming.  This was the perfect introduction into what this special place would hold for us in the days to come.

Delicate Arch

Parking Area: Wolfe Ranch
Miles: 3
Elevation Change: 500 feet
Difficulty: Moderate

What a hike! On our second day in Arches we opted for a more strenuous trek up to Delicate Arch. There are two paths that can be taken to two different viewpoints of this iconic arch within the park. There is a short 1/2 mile trail that affords a view of the arch from the south while the longer, more difficult 3 mile hike brings travelers above the arch looking down from the north. In summer months visitors dare to climb around the big bowl that surrounds this arch but in winter be prepared for slippery conditions that may not prove safe for too much exploring.

It had snowed the day before so the trail was coated in a snow/slush mixture. It was our first time trudging through orange slush!

Despite the conditions we were surprised to see several other vehicles at the trailhead parking lot and a school bus. The trailhead has a privy and signage warning hikers of the steep terrain ahead and that high heels would not be appropriate footwear on the trail. We laughed at the outrageousness of that statement before learning, later on, that it was necessary as several women were seen wearing high heels in the parking area.

The trail begins flat and wide with bridges for easy stream crossings. There is an old cabin, root cellar, and corrals to view just steps from the parking lot. These remnants are what is left of “Wolfe Ranch”, built by John Wesley Wolfe in 1906. A surprising 6 people lived in this tiny cabin!

Jack was disappointed that we couldn’t go inside but the prospect of “climbing a mountain” appealed to him enough that we were able to move along with little to no tantrum. We opted to take the short detour trail to view petroglyphs, believed to be made by the Ute people in the 1600s, before starting the ascent of the trail to delicate arch.

The trail had a slippery slush atop it that was already beginning to melt so there was a remarkable amount of water crossing the trail at various points. Jack began to have a constant, endless round of questions that focused solely on where the water was coming from. Two waterfalls cascaded down the side of a nearby cliff face as the hike steepened and narrowed.

A section of this hike is on rock with occasional signs to assist hikers in way-finding.

The majority of this hike is easy, breezy, if not a little steep and muddy, however, the end section is pretty harrowing, especially in the snow and ice. A narrow pathway leads hikers to Delicate Arch but the steep, unprotected drop off on one side is not for those afraid of heights. The good thing was there is a tall wall on the opposite side of the trail that affords hikers a solid space to rest hands and give confidence in each step. I do wonder what the trail would be like in summer with no ice or snow but 100s of anxious explorers all vying for this iconic arch.

The view of the arch as you exit the sketchy stretch of trail is breathtaking and completely worth the effort given to this hike. We had been promising Jack lunch at the turnaround point when we reached the arch but, we immediately knew that wouldn’t be possible when we saw the snow and ice covered rocks and steep drop-offs that surrounded us in that space.

We took in the view and were joined by only a handful of hikers before we ventured down the treacherous stretch of trail.

Upon making it safely down the other side we stopped in a slight drizzle and enjoyed our lunch of pb&j. This is an out-and-back hike but it was fascinating to see it change in just a few short hours to no snow, and many of the small stream crossings already gone as the melt had finished. Rowan got a chance to get out of the pack and get her feet dirty in the flatter, sandier sections of trail near the end.

Devil’s Garden

Parking Area: Devil’s Garden
Miles: 7.2
Elevation Change: 350 feet
Difficulty: Strenuous

After a week of desert hiking in all weather we were emboldened and ready for a big trek. The 7.2 mile loop trail affording views of up to 8 named arches, depending upon which spurs hikers opt to take, was high on our list of hikes to accomplish.

The hike begins on a large, well-maintained, often traveled trail that is incredibly popular. Most hikers view Landscape arch with a short side trip to view Tunnel and Pine Tree Arches to the west. Landscape Arch is worth far more than the two mile effort hikers need to invest in to gaze in wonder at the 306 foot span.

We gazed in wonder, from afar of this spectacular giant arch and imagined what it would’ve been like to be present during the 1991 rockfall that sent a 73 foot section of rock falling to the ground beneath the arch. Visitors to the park were there and witnessed this force of nature that will, eventually, befall all the arches in the park. Subsequent rockfalls in 1995 had the Park Service closing a trail that used to lead visitors under the arch. Fences now keep foot traffic well away from this fragile formation.

From this point onward the trail is labeled primitive and difficult. Often times National Parks use strong language to discourage wary travelers so we figured this was one such instance. I’m here to tell you that this trail was no joke! Steep drop-offs, scrambling, sliding down steep inclines, and trail-finding were all in store for us on this trail.

We took a spur trail veering east for a view of Navajo Arch. I really like this arch and it might actually be my favorite of all. It seemed like a magical place where trees grow in unlikely places and amazing things will happen. Rowan needed to stretch her legs and this sandy, flat section of the trail was the perfect spot for her to explore on her own.

In the morning we were one group of a handful attempting the loop trail but by afternoon the trail was crawling with college-aged people enjoying a rare day of February sunshine at the park during a long weekend.

While I don’t normally enjoy being around so many other people it did, often come in handy to have kind-hearted people stop and help us and chat with us about what would lie ahead.

We did learn a lesson we have learned time and again, and yet always seem to forget… Don’t always trust that the hikers in front of you know the way! We made the silly mistake of following a group down a sketchy boulder, down climb that wasn’t on the trail and lead us 1/4 of a mile away from the next arch on the loop, Double O. After consulting with our trusty Gaia GPS app, Bobby quickly realized that we were no longer heading in the correct direction. A consult from a fellow hiker who happened to be passing by and our suspicions were confirmed. We trudged the 1/4 of a mile back to the site of Double O Arch. Rowan was displeased with this delay as it was lunch time and man does that girl get hangry!

We took a much-needed break at the base of the arches where we ate and played in the sand. We were all feeling good and strong and wanted to do the complete 7.2 mile trail. So, rather then heading back down the path we’d come on we continued on to the “primitive trail”. As we neared it two separate hikers warned us that there were some sketchy sections of trail along the way and that neither of them would do it with kids. These groups didn’t appear to be outfitted with the best shoes so we laid the blame for their struggles squarely on their lack of proper equipment and cockily continued on the trail assuming we could handle anything this trail would throw at us.

We reached a steep decline and were helped down by a lovely couple but the next decline, near Fin’s Canyon would stop us dead in our tracks. We were so freaked out by this section of trail and so disheartened by the fact that after 4.5 miles (well over the halfway mark) that we would need to turn around that we didn’t take a single photo. We discussed the section with fellow hikers, who didn’t have children and were also nervous by what lay ahead of them. It was a downward sloped section of slick rock with a narrow, foot-wide “path” to tread on. To the right of the “trail” was a steep slide at least 50 feet long. The slick rock was coated in a film of sand making it slippery and footing super sketch. A couple of hikers were opting to take their shoes off in the hopes of having better grip with bare feet. In hindsight, had we taken the Devil’s Garden loop counterclockwise and approached this section from the bottom, needing to go up, it would have been no problem whatsoever. Sadly we didn’t and we realized that though this 50 foot section was in the way of us completing our loop, the safety of our children always comes first in all that we do. Many people were brave, daring, or silly enough to complete this section of trail, we just weren’t. We headed back the way we came disheartened but positive that we had made the correct decision.

We warned other hikers we met along the way who also had children with them. One new mom opted to hike out with us, allowing her group to continue on, rather than face that section with her 5 month old baby.

This is a truly remarkable trail and I do encourage experienced, prepared, and brave hikers to try it, but to try it counterclockwise! The journey back the way we came was a long one and filled with milling tourists, young adults with music blaring from speakers, and young families all debating whether to continue on or head back.

Our day on the trail may not have been successful but we had a ton of fun exploring every nook and cranny of this beautiful place!

Other hikes to explore

Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to explore every hike within the park. There’s a lot more to see than shown above. Here are some other hikes to consider:

Broken Arch and Sand Dune Arch

An easy 1 mile round-trip hike to two arches. Sand dune arch lives up to its name as the base of the arch is like a giant sand box! Broken arch isn’t actually broken, but the rock is creased in a way that makes it appear to be.

Park Avenue

Park Avenue is the first trailhead you’ll pass on your way from the visitor center. The trail has two trailheads – one at the south end and one at the north end allowing you to hike it 1 mile one way if you’re able to have someone pick you up at the other end. Otherwise the full hike it 2 miles out and back. The trail wanders through some of the iconic towers in Arches like Courthouse Towers and the Three Gossips.

Fiery Furnace

If you have older kids then definitely check out this hike. Children under 5 are not allowed and permits are required for access to this maze of fins and canyons (for an additional fee). It can be difficult to navigate so if you aren’t confident in your route-finding abilities then join one of the 2 daily ranger led hikes (March – October, additional fee applies). Due to the popularity of these tours, reservations are recommended from Recreation.gov.

Last winter we made it a goal to visit frozen waterfalls, this year we decided to take on a different type of ice adventure. Hiking on an ice covered lake is something I haven’t done since I was a camp staff member at Snow Base Boy Scout Camp in Wisconsin over 10 years ago. We live just minutes from Lake Minnetonka so it seemed like the perfect spot for our frozen adventure. The weather was surprisingly warm for a January day and we hit the ice before 9:00 a.m. and temps were already in the high 20s and would make their way into the low 30s before the day was out.

Our goal was to reach Big Island where an amusement park stood from 1906-1911. The island was also used as a campground for several years before the city of Orono purchased it and opened a nature park in 2006. Camping is no longer allowed but hiking and picnicking are popular. We have never visited Big Island before and thought trekking over the lake on foot atop the ice would be a magical way to view this historic land. The total distance from our starting point from Excelsior Commons to the Big Island and back would’ve been 4 miles or so.

We had Rowan strapped in her pack and expected Jack to walk the distance on his own. Initially we were having success and the excitement of walking on the ice, looking for reformed ice fishing holes, bubbles in the ice, deep snow, and so much more kept us all occupied and happy. It felt like the quintessential Minnesota outing as we heard the announcers and cheers from the nearby pond hockey tournament taking place at iconic Maynards and passed by numerous ice houses both in use and left for another day of frozen fishing. Small aircraft flew overhead and distant train whistles kept us company as we trekked across the lake on a cloudy but calm day.

Snack time came quickly and we settled in for a short break on the ice. We had brought along an eggshell sleeping pad which made for the perfect picnic blanket to protect our rumps from the cold ice below. Rowan was excited for the break from her pack and Jack was excited for all the hiking treats he had helped me pack before leaving home that morning.

Continuing on we soon remembered why we try and find hikes with narrow, easy to follow paths. When Jack is given a wide open space to explore his mind (and feet) wander all over the place. He can hike 3+ miles with a steady and solid pace when the path is easily laid out before him but he soon tires and gets bored when we appear to not be making any progress on a more meandering trek. We were able to keep him moving by looking for interesting things below the ice and he even found a leaf partially frozen to the lake that he dug out and insisted we bring home. He calls the leaf his best friend and we have it framed and on proud display atop his dresser in his room. Motivation to continue forward momentum quickly faded for our little man and the bribes came out! Dark chocolate covered acai and blueberries were popped regularly into his mouth as ways to keep him moving. Small tantrums were becoming frequent and it was soon obvious that we wouldn’t be making it to Big Island.

Rowan desperately wanted to walk but doesn’t understand the concept of ice so keeping her safe was virtually impossible with our independent trekker who refused to hold hands. We traded off carrying her but eventually resigned ourselves to listening to her shrieks of frustration as we settled her back in her pack. Soon enough she was asleep as we forged ahead.

Though we knew making it to Big Island wasn’t going to happen there was a small, much closer island (Gale Island) that we decided to make our destination. A private residence resides on the small mound of land and we opted to touch a rock on the shore and turn around and return to the truck. 

All in all we traveled about 3 miles total over 3 hours on the ice. Thanks to the weather and our gear we all stayed warm and comfortable. This is definitely something we want to try again in the future and hopefully get to Big Island someday. No doubt about it this was a trying morning on the ice but also a good reminder for us parents that our idea of a good and exciting time may not always coincide with what the toddlers in your crew have in mind.

The one very exciting aspect of this trek was that it was our first adventure with a potty trained preschooler! Jack was a little late to the potty game but is totally rocking it now! We initially attempted to have him stand for his inaugural outdoor pee but that totally freaked him out. I made a seat out of my arms while Bobby made sure to keep his gear covered legs clear of the stream. He thought it was totally awesome but also wanted to jump in the puddle it made…. Kids are truly bizarre and wonderful creatures who make our journey through life far more interesting, to say the least.